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Author Topic: 337/20th FAQ/DIY Thread  (Read 7182 times)
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« on: April 01, 2004, 03:03:40 AM »

DO NOT POST IN THIS THREAD UNLESS YOU ARE 100% SURE THAT EVERY WORD YOU TYPE IS TRUE.
THIS THREAD IS NOT FOR QUESTIONS, IT IS FOR ANSWERS
Please **ONLY ** post the information you have and **DO NOT ** debate it within the thread.
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« Reply #1 on: April 01, 2004, 03:04:27 AM »

(1) VW Edition 18x7.5” BBS RC w/center caps= $619.62

Set of Four = $2,478.48

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« Reply #2 on: April 01, 2004, 03:05:12 AM »

To FIND information on the "D.I.Y Thread" hit CTRL F and use the search function on your Internet Explorer Browser to scan this page.
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« Reply #3 on: April 01, 2004, 03:06:00 AM »

GTI 337 BBS RC's have a special shot-peened finish on them. If you curbed your rim for example. The finish on your rim can not be duplicated 100% by any rim restoration shop.

If you want an exact match of your other 3 rims, you would have to buy a new rim.
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« Reply #4 on: April 01, 2004, 03:06:26 AM »

Bentley CD-ROM, covering the 2002 AWP engine and 337.


 http://www.bentleypublishers.com/product.htm?code=VEA4&subject=20

W42 VEA4 V025 CD
Bentley Stock Number: VEA4
Publication Date: 2002.dec.16
Bentley Part #: VA4.Y03.R01.CD
Editorial Closing Date: 2002.nov
ISBN: 0-8376-0841-4
Price: $99.95
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« Reply #5 on: April 01, 2004, 03:06:45 AM »


 

Part numbers for Euro 25th AE back seat.


(1) 1j0-885-081-af-68a arm
> rest $139
> (2) 1j0-885-313
> clip (2 needed) $1.25
> *(4) 1J0-885-471
> backrest lock left $33.00
> *(4) 1J0-885-472B
> backrest lock right $31.00
> *(6) 1J0-885-501-AR
> frame left $179 ++
> (7) 1j0-885-502--2aq frame
> right $199
> (14) 1j0-885-643e-b41
> release rod left $2
> (14) 1j0-885-644e-b41
> release rod right $2
> (15) 1j6-885-753-a-1bs trm
> panel left $28 ++
> (16) 1j6-885-754--1bs trim
> panel right $35
> (18) 1j0-885-775-br
> padding $69
> (19) 1j0-885-776--cj
> padding $84
> (21) 1j0-885-785d-b41
> escutcheon (2 needed) $2.75
> (22) 1j0-885-805-le-nph
> cover $165
> (23) 1j0-885-806-pm-nph
> cover $181
> (28) 1j0-885-943--b41
> trim $21
> (29) 1j0885-596--61e
> bracket $12
> (30) n-904-229-01
> panel screw (6 needed) 85 cents
> *(31) 1J0-886-161B
> mounting left $3.80
> *(31) 1J0-886-162B
> mounting right $3.80
> *(32) 8L0-886-197A-01c
> CAP $1.10
> *(33) 1J0-886-227
> BEARING BUSH (2 needed) 50 cents
> (35) 1J0-886-277
> retaining bracket $3.50
> *(36) 1J0-886-735
> FITTED BOLT (2 needed) 95 cents
> (37) 1j0-886-920d-b41 guide
> w/push button (2 needed) $8.50
> (38) 1j0-886-920b-b41
> guide (2 needed) $8.50
> *(39) 1J0-823-499A stop
> buffer 95 cents
> *(47) 6N0-815-478-b41
> clips (2 needed) $2.25
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« Reply #6 on: April 01, 2004, 03:07:42 AM »

25th AE Full Euro Cluster and NAV - $3125.00 - That is the price i got from SVTWEB from VwVortex, shipped to your door with every single part needed... US CD's etc....(Not including cell phone holder)

 
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« Reply #7 on: April 01, 2004, 03:08:16 AM »

Factory Sport Suspension: 7% stiffer springs and shocks, 23mm front sway bar (up from 21mm in the Golf; Jetta/GTI unchanged), 21mm rear sway bar (up from 18mm in Golf/Jetta; GTI unchanged), 10mm drop

DriverGear Sport Suspension: Eibach Pro-Kit springs that are made to slightly different VW specs, 20% stiffer than stock, 30mm drop

337/20AE Suspension: Eibach springs that are 20% stiffer than stock with 30mm drop (same as DriverGear), 21mm RSB, 23 FSB (sways same as regular gti), gas charged Monroe shocks, metal/rubber rear bushings (instead of hydro)*


*cannot direct-replace bushings to regular mkiv, the entire hydraulic bushing equipped rear axle must be replaced with a rubber bushing equipped rear axle.

HTH  =)

-----------------------------------------

337 paint code: LA7W
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« Reply #8 on: April 01, 2004, 03:08:50 AM »

337
 
 20th AE
 

 Armrest install from adonaldson...

Part number on my armrest:

380 864 209 AC LKK

This is super easy (should take about an hour or less).

First, Tools you will need.
T20 Torx driver (to remove 4 torx screws)
Dull Flathead screwdriver (to pry plastic peices out of console)
13mm thin wrench & 13mm socket (to mount armrest bracket to car)

Step 1:

Remove the red insert ashtray in the rear. (puch the black door peices down, and it will pop up a little bit, simply pull out)

Step 2:

Remove the 2 T20 torx screws under the ashtray (extremely long, & they don't need to be)

Step 3:

Gently pry the two plastic peices out of the font console with a dull screwdriver, then remove the 2 T20 torx screws (only 1 per side).

Step 4:

  JERK your ebrake up as far as it will go.

Step 5:

Raise the rear of the console upward until the front of the console gives resistance, then, while pulling backwards on it, pull up on the front gearshift console (two or three plastic tabs hold it in place, be careful).

Step 6:

Now that you have the console removed, pop out the coin holder (two tabs on both sides (I accidently broke my tabs doing it, so be careful).

Set the console aside now.

Step 7:

Install the armrest bracket (the two screws on the passenger side are predrilled, but you will need patience to get the nuts to line up under the sheet metal.  I had to pry back my carpet a little bit to get my wrench in there to hold the nut.  I used the wrench on the nuts and the socket on the bolt from the top.

The bracket support on the drivers side required you to remove the existing nut and bolt (holding ebrake), and use a longer bolt.  I went to NAPA to get a bolt, and they were all out of the length I needed, so I just didn't install (doesn't seem to need it)  If you decide to install, you will need a longer bolt and 2 nuts (one to hold the ebrake bracket, then some washers for correct spacing, then the bracket, and finally the third nut)).

Step 8:

IMPORTANT!! (the 2 screws you removed from the rear of the console, slip those through the holes before you begin (much easier).

Start with the front of the console by sliding it under the gearshift console peice (will need to pull up on the gearshift console).  Once it us under, verify that the ebrake will slide through hole, make sure your seatbelt catchers are out of the way, and that the outside of the console doesn't go on the inside of the gearshift console (takes some finagling).  Then simply lower it down.  Strarting with the rear screws, tighten those 2 first with the T20 torx driver, then go the fronts...making sure everything lines up.  Last, simply snap those two plastic peices back into there holes (they only go one way, find the groove in the hole, that is where the single tab goes, and insert the side with the double tabs first).

Step 9:

Secure armrest to bracket with the bolt and using your 13mm socket (jiggle the armrest while tightening to ensure a properly alligned fit).

Step 10:

Snap plastic cover onto armrest.

Step 11:

Put your red ahstray back in and enjoy your newly installed armrest!


 1-800-vw-parts. $125 + $14 COD delivery charge (USED)

                               OR

$215 (NEW) from the dealer
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« Reply #9 on: April 01, 2004, 03:09:17 AM »

Weight

337 - 2857lbs
20th AE - 2916lbs
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« Reply #10 on: April 01, 2004, 03:10:01 AM »

VOLKSWAGEN 2003 20TH ANNIVERSARY EDITION GTI

4,000 units total in the U.S. and 200 units total in Canada
Cars will be numbered via a dash plaque (Canadian cars not numbered)
POWERTRAIN
• 1.8t turbocharged 180 bhp @ 5500 rpm with 174 lb-ft torque @ 1950 rpm
• 6-speed MQ350/O2M350 manual transmission

BRAKES & SUSPENSION
• 12.3 inch front rotors, 10 inch rear vented rotors, red powder-coated calipers (all from Audi TT)
• Eibach springs that are 20% stiffer than stock, 23mm RSB, 21 FSB, gas charged Monroe shocks, metal/rubber rear bushings, 30mm drop

EXTERIOR
• Colors: Black Magic Pearl, Jazz Blue & Imola Yellow
• 18" R32 Wheels
• Michelin Pilot Sport 225/40-ZR18 tires
• Votex body kit with front valence, side skirts, rear valence and hatch spoiler
• Side mirrors painted gloss black
• Blacked out headlamp interior surrounds
• Red retro GTI logo on front grill and retro rabbit badge along with red retro GTI logo on rear
• Chrome 2.25" exhaust tip with full chrome underbody piping

INTERIOR
• Black interior with black headliner
• Recaro seats silver/grey and black
• Red-lined seat belts
• European instrument cluster with aluminum trim bezels
• Brushed aluminum interior trim (complete kit)
• Leather-wrapped 3-point steering wheel
• Silver/grey stitching on steering wheel, shift boot and handbrake knob
• Special golf ball shift knob similar to original GTI shift knob
• Silver/grey trimmed floor mats
• Aluminum pedals with rubber inserts
• Silver GTI door sills
• Monsoon Sound System
• Sunroof
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« Reply #11 on: April 01, 2004, 03:10:23 AM »

VOLKSWAGEN 2002 GTI 337

1500 units total in the U.S and 250 units total in Canada
POWERTRAIN
• 1.8t turbocharged 180 bhp @ 5500 rpm with 174 lb-ft torque @ 1950 rpm
• 6-speed MQ350/O2M350 manual transmission

BRAKES & SUSPENSION
• 12.3 inch front rotors, 10 inch rear vented rotors, red powder-coated calipers (all from Audi TT)
• Eibach springs that are 20% stiffer than stock, 23mm RSB, 21 FSB, gas charged Monroe shocks, metal/rubber rear bushings, 30mm drop

EXTERIOR
• Color: Reflex Silver
• 18" BBS RC Wheels with ball shot peened finish
• Michelin Pilot Sport 225/40-ZR18 tires
• Votex body kit with front valence, side skirts, rear valence and hatch spoiler
• GTI 25th Anniversary badges on front grill and rear
• Chrome 2.25" exhaust tip with full chrome underbody piping

INTERIOR
• Black interior with grey headliner
• Recaro seats red/black
• Red-lined seat belts
• Brushed aluminum interior trim
• Leather-wrapped 3-point steering wheel
• Red stitching on steering wheel, shift boot and handbrake knob
• Special golf ball shift knob similar to original GTI shift knob
• Red trimmed floor mats
• Aluminum pedals with rubber inserts
• Silver GTI door sills
• Monsoon Sound System
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« Reply #12 on: April 01, 2004, 03:10:47 AM »

If anyone is looking for a quality wrench for the BBS center caps, the part that you need is # 5923009 .
This is made by BBS Design for the RC. It contacts the center cap on six sides so there is no slipping. It is a high quality piece and much, much better than the one that came from VW.

Price $12.00  

Contact Eric at the Tire Rack @ (800) 428-8355 Ext. 391
The customer service was great.
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« Reply #13 on: April 01, 2004, 03:11:28 AM »



BBS Center Cap Removal Tool

Available @ http://www.tomassporttuning.com/products.html

A necessary item for all GTI 337 owners, this official BBS tool is designed to easily remove the center caps without damaging the chrome finish. This is also designed to work with all BBS RC wheels that are featured as OEM on some Audi A6's. This item is much more solid then the similar tool offered by VW dealerships. Small enough to keep in the car at all times because you never know when you might have to use it.
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« Reply #14 on: April 01, 2004, 03:11:49 AM »

Non 337 BBS RC's 18X7.5 (Silver Finish)...

Part# ZVW-I45-200-DS-666 - $370.00

Wheel and Michelin Pilot Sport a.s 225/40 18" tire...

Part# ZVW-I45-220-DS-666 - $553.00
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« Reply #15 on: April 01, 2004, 03:12:19 AM »

20 AE Paint Codes:

Jazz Blue = LW5Z
Imola Yellow = LY1C
Black Magic Pearl =LC9Z
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« Reply #16 on: April 01, 2004, 03:13:19 AM »

337 ECU part number:

06A 906 032 ML (Retails for $2000)   :

2002 GTI ECU part number:

06A 906 032 HF (retails for $400)  


You can use the HF ecu in your 337 with a chip running the program for the ML ecu.   :thumbup:
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« Reply #17 on: April 01, 2004, 03:13:45 AM »

337/20th AE Wheel weight...

337 - 43lbs each with tire
20th AE - 48lbs each with tire
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« Reply #18 on: April 01, 2004, 03:14:16 AM »

Installation of Votex Knob (or any others)

Seeing that I've had quite a few questions over the span of three different threads about this I decided to post a little DIY/FYI "faq" for this. It's not rocket science or anything but I know visuals help (at least they do for me at times).

First thing's first, the obvious:
   -NO it's not illuminated  Razz
   -Yes it comes availiable in the 6spd version which you will see here.
   -www.hillsideimports.com is where I bought it from

Ok now that that's out of the way here's a breakdown of the process. Like I said it's not rocket science so this only takes about 10 minutes.

First to remove the base and access the shaft, pinch both sides of the base with your thumb and middle fingers. You don't have to squeeze the hell out of it, just enough so that the base caves a little. As you pinch it, lift the base from the back applying pressure towards the front. Ours are a little different from other IV's because we don't have to worry about removing trim first.

 

Once you remove the base, lift up the boot over the shifter and you'll see a brass ring that fastens the stock knob to the shaft. To remove the unit you'll have to remove this ring. You can either break it off or loosen it with needle nose pliers however it does not need to be broken for the unit to come off. All you have to do is loosen it and slide the ring off.

 

After you remove the ring you'll be able pull the unit off the shaft. If you had broken the ring, don't worry the package includes an extra one already in tact. If you did break it then hit up a junkyard or your local hardware store for fastener rings 3/8" in size:

 

Slide the ring over the tabs and onto the base of the knob:

 

Reverse your steps and attached the base unit to the shaft and use clamp pliers to fasten the ring to secure the unit. Slide the base back into the console to finish:

 

Like I said it's not rocket science so it'll take you like 10 minutes to do this. If you want to remove the stock knob from the stock boot it's actually attached by a zip tie and staples all around. Remove your base unit and check it out, I was actually a little surprised by this 'cause I thought it was just one piece. Anyways there you have it.  :thumbup:

Written by Pike
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« Reply #19 on: April 01, 2004, 03:15:19 AM »

Gear Ratios

1st: 3.42
2nd: 2.11
3rd: 1.48
4th: 1.15
5th: 1.17
6th: 0.97
Reverse: 2.50
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