2.0t FAQ/Technical Information

[elitedübs]

Let's get this 2.0t forum moving. If anyone has any information they would like to add. Please don't be shy and post it up.

Engine
Stock fuel pump limits
DigitalHippie $25 PCV fix
DigitalHippie $2 Noise pipe delete for GTi/GLi

DIY / Product Review
DIY: GTI/GLI speedometer fix
DIY/Review: Neuspeed and Powerflex poly inserts for dogbone mount
DIY: mk5 brakes
REVIEW: Koni FSD struts with Eibach Pro-kit springs on GTI

FYI
FYI: 20k oil change, Mobil1 0w40 blackstone analysis
Resetting Service Reminder

[elitedübs]

Information provided by DigitalHippie


(big thanks to OOOO-A3 for the pictures! :thumbup: )

Typical disclaimer... do at your own risk... blah blah blah...

Soooo.... I think many of you are now familiar with the PCV valve on the 2.0T engine.  Its the second weak spot (second to the DV) on these engines.  The failure seems more common on chipped (stage2) cars, but even stock cars have had these valves fail.  When the valve fails, you'll notice your max boost PSI slowly declining (over a cpl days, weeks, it will get worse) and eventually you see signs of oil being blown out the oil fill cap.  This is because the stock PCV valve is failing under boost, and allowing pressurized intake air back into the valve cover/crankcase.

So people have been throwing around different options... from capping it off, to running secondary PCVs, to catch-cans...  But I wanted to fix the problem, while retaining stock-like PCV function.  With this fix, the PCV valve will still see vac from the intake... but will no longer see boost... problem solved!

The main part of the solution is an inline check-valve.  Check-valves are designed to allow one-way flow.  The valve used in the fix can be found here: (EDIT: McMaster changed their site, so, go to http://www.mcmaster.com and enter 1424T37 in the search on the left side).  I chose this particular valve for a number of reasons:  1) similar ID to the stock fittings  2) high back-pressure resistance (125psi)  3) wide temperature range (-40F - 200F)  4) sping loaded for quick action  5) 1psi "cracking pressure" so the engine vac will easily pop it back open  6) and a soft seat for a "bubble-tight" seal

Here's the valve:


You will also need:
2 approx 1" segments of 3/4" OD rubber heater hose (or optionally 5/8" hose for a tighter fit)
4 hose clamps (that will fit over the heater hose)

First step is to remove the "accordian tube" seen here:

This can be removed by pressing on the sides of the connectors, then pulling them loose.

Second, we need to cut a small section from the tube to accomodate the new valve.  You're going to want to cut more towards the manifold end, so that your engine cover will still fit.  See here:



Next, you want to screw the check-valve into the pieces of rubber heater hose.  Pay attention to the "black end" of the check-valve... you will want this FACING THE PCV valve once installed on the car.



Now, slip the pieces of accordian hose into the rubber hoses you just attached to the check-valve, like so:


Once you have everthing fit together... use the four hose clamps to ensure the connections are tight... two clamps per 1" rubber hose. (no pic available)

Finally, reinstall the new assembly on the car and enjoy!

please note, while no hose clamps appear in this picture (since its not my pic)... I do recommend putting clamps on to ensure things stay together

I've been running this setup on my own car for months without a problem :thumbup:  Love seeing that needle hit 21-22psi  


UPDATE



As you can see in the above image, there are TWO check-valves in the original PCV assembly.  Apparently both are prone to failure.  One failure will cause boost loss, the other will not... but both cause excess crankcase pressure (and as a result will blow oil out the oil fill cap).  After applying my fix, I still found a small amount of oil being blown out the oil cap... but since I no longer had boost loss, and a million things to do, I didn't bother with it.  The new OEM "G" version of the PCV valve only has ONE check-valve in it.  The one check-valve is a beefier valve to replace the one between the intake and valvecover.  The second check-valve (between the turbo and valvecover) was moved to the hose between the turbo and valvecover.

So, if you have applied my fix, and you're still experiencing oil being blown out the oil fill cap... you should get the updated hose pictured here:


I have not tested this myself, I plan to as soon as I can get the part.  The part number is: 06F 103 215A

Thanks goes to 4string for the pic and info on this hose w/check-valve


25k+ on my original here:

[elitedübs]

Information provided by DigitalHippie

I decided I didn't want to pay $80 for the A3/Jetta/Passat intake tube without the "y-pipe"... so I found another way to delete the "noise pipe" from the engine.

Keep in mind, following this DIY is AT YOUR OWN RISK.  I'm not responsible if you damage your car in the process.

So here it is, the $2 "noise pipe" delete mod...................  I'll try to add some more pics in to supplement some of the steps, once I get around to editting the pics.

Required tools:
7mm Socket
T-30 Hex Bit
Channel lock pliers OR Vice-grips

Now the trick to this mod is right here... 1" test-plug, available at most hardware stores... or local plumbing supply stores.


Step 1 - Take off the MAF Sensor plug and unclip wire from "noise pipe", and remove engine cover.

Step 2 - Using channel lock pliers... unclamp the rubber hoses on each end of the "noise pipe" and slide the clamps back.

Step 3 - Remove 7mm hex bolt (along plastic trim above headlight).

Step 4 - Remove T30 bolt from "noise pipe" mount.

Step 5 - Now that the noise pipe is loose, wiggle the rubber hoses off each end and remove the pipe (and rubber hose on the throttle body end) from the car.

It should now look something like this:



Step 6 - Release the metal clip, and pull off the remaining rubber hose.

Step 7 - Peel back the rubber seal on the rain tray, and carefully lift up the passenger side, you should see something like this:


Step 8 - Use the channel lock pliers to release the hose clamp, and wiggle the small pipe out of the firewall (takes a little twisting and tugging, but it'll come out).

Step 9 - All that's left is the "speaker"... there are 2 T30 screws holding it in.  Remove those screws, then wiggle the "speaker" assembly out (again, takes some twisting and tugging).

Now back to the intake pipe end...


Step 10 - Make sure the wing-nut on the test plug is loose, then insert the test-plug into the intake pipe.  Push it in until the top of the test plug is flush with the edge of the intake pipe.

Step 11 - Twist the wing-nut down to tighten the plug.  Make sure its nice and SNUG.

Once finished, it should look like this:


And you're done!! :thumbup:  :thumbup:


So to look at this POS after it was removed from the car...




Doesn't look like much of a speaker to me!  What's with the foam filter??  The picture doesn't do it justice... but the inner side of that foam piece is stained... and smells like oil vapor!!

[elitedübs]

Information provided by DigitalHippie

Here's my mini-writeup for the install, and my review... sorry for lack of pics (EDIT, ok, I borrowed some pics from another thread to make this a lil easier... original thread here: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2789600)


Stock dogbone mount on top (VFE replacement mount on bottom... see this thread if you want to go that route: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2789600)

Where to get the parts:

Neuspeed Poly Insert - http://neuspeed.com/products/p...=1962

Powerflex Poly Insert - http://www.powerflexusa.com (click order, then vw, then mk5, then get part #5)


Tools needed:
21mm socket
16mm socket
socket wrench
18" breaker bar
rubber mallet
hammer
flat head screwdriver
silicone spray grease
torque wrench (if you're anal)
jack & jackstands (or ramps for the suicidal)

Step 1 - raise and secure the front end of the car (via jack&stands, or ramps)

Step 2 - get under the car, you will see the dogbone mount in the middle connected to the engine and subframe

Step 3 - use the breaker bar and 21mm socket to remove the large bolt at the rear of the mount

Step 4 - remove the two 16mm bolts at the front of the mount


Step 5 - pull the dogbone mount off the car

Step 6 - spray silicon grease generously on the neuspeed poly insert

Step 7 - press the neuspeed insert into the rubber bushing in the subframe (rear end of the dogbone mount)... use the rubber mallet if necessary to persuade it into place


Step 8 - take the rest of the dogbone mount... use a little elbow grease to seperate the black piece from the bushing (wiggle, twist, it will come off)

Step 9 - look at the bushing in the aluminum mount... you'll see it has a green plastic ring around the outside... using the flat head screwdriver and hammer, chip away at the green plastic ring... the bushing will get looser as you break the plastic, and you should be able to smack the bushing out with the hammer in no time (if this isn't working for you, you can also try drilling through the plastic ring)

Step 10 - grease the powerflex insert (either with grease provided, or the silicon spray grease)

Step 11 - put the powerflex insert into the dogbone mount, and push the metal sleeve (provided by powerflex) through the insert (grease this a little bit too)

Step 12 - get back under the car with all your pieces and bolts

Step 13 - insert the dogbone mount into the bushing in the subframe

Step 14 - using the washers provided by neuspeed, start the 21mm bolt in the subframe bushing... but do not tighten yet


Step 15 - hold the black metal piece in place and start the two 16mm bolts... keep in mind the longer bolt goes in the rear position.. you might need to shift the engine around a little bit to align these bolts, but this can easily be done by hand

Step 16 - snug up all the bolts

Step 17 - if you're really anal about it, get out your torque wrench... and tighten to proper torque (16mm bolts are both 30ft/lbs, 21mm bolt is 74ft/lbs)... or if you're not so anal, just tighten everything up good (use the breaker bar to be sure the 21mm is tight again)

Step 18 - put the car back down and enjoy


Review:
Much cleaner shifts, feels better pulling off the line, reduced wheel hop... but the best part, NO ADDED CABIN VIBRATION!  That's right... on the mk4 platform, upgrading these bushings could lead to significant cabin vibration... but not on the mk5.  Nothing but improvements... and for approx $60 and 40minutes of work, can't beat it! :thumbup:  :thumbup:

[elitedübs]

Information provided by DigitalHippie

20k oil change, 10k on the oil, here's the results...


And to make it more interesting... due to the faulty PCV valve... I was boosting into my valve cover/crankcase for about 2500 miles.

[elitedübs]

Information provided by DigitalHippie



This is obviously at your own risk.  I take no responsibility if you screw something up.  There are mixed reports as to whether or not it fixes anything, but it doesn't seem to harm anything either.

Only tool required: VAG-COM

Open VAG-COM


Select "17 - Instruments"


Select "07 - Coding"


Observe your current coding, if its ends with 3... proceed


Change the last digit to 7...


And select "Do It"


DONE!

And for the skeptics, the VW TSB: http://vonx.homeip.net:81/~twb...e.pdf

Here's the newer TSB that includes 2006 models (but the rest of the content is the same it seems):
http://vonx.homeip.net:81/~twb...1.pdf

[elitedübs]

Information provided by DigitalHippie

Got done putting my brake upgrades on, figured I'd put together a write-up for others... so here it is:

All typical disclaimers apply, do at your own risk, blah blah blah... I'm not responsible if you drop the car on your head and kill yourself.


Tools/Materials:
18" breaker bar, 1/2" drive
1/2" drive socket wrench
3/8" drive socket wrench
16mm box wrench
13mm box wrench
21mm socket
13mm socket
7mm allen socket (or 7mm allen key)
14mm triple square socket (http://www.germanautoparts.com/tools/Volkswagen/Brake%20tools#2)
large flathead screwdriver
needle nose pliers
T30 torx socket (or T30 torx key)
rear piston tool (borrow one from autozone for free, or buy it here: http://www.germanautoparts.com...ols#1)
large clamp
jack
jack stands
tire wrench&key
blue threadlock
antiseize
anti-squeal paste
penetrating grease (pb blaster)
grease (I prefer moly fortified)


Step 1:
Loosen front lug bolts while car is on the ground (just get them started).  Jack up the front end of the car and secure on stands.  Remove front wheels and set aside.

Step 2:
Spray some penetrating grease on the caliper carrier bolts (there are two per caliper).


Step 3:
Use the flathead screwdriver to remove the anti-vibration clip.


Step 4:
Remove the plastic caps covering the caliper pins.  Then remove the pins using the 7mm socket.


Step 5:
(for the front driver's side only) Unclip the wear sensor.


Step 6:
Using the 21mm socket (and you will likely need the 18" breaker bar), loosen the caliper carrier bolts.


Step 7:
Slide the caliper off the rotor, and support it so there's no stress on the brake line (I usually wheel the jack over and use it to hold the brake caliper up while I work).



Step 8:
Remove the old brake pads from the caliper, and caliper carrier.

Step 9:
Before going further, let's put some anti-squeal paste on the new pads... it needs a few minutes to dry, and since we still have work to do it should be dry by the time we need to install them.



Step 10:
Remove the two caliper carrier bolts (21mm); set them and the caliper carrier asside.


Step 11:
Using the clamp, compress the piston in the caliper.


Step 12:
Using the T30 torx, remove the set screw from the rotor.


Step 13:
Remove the old rotor and set aside.


Step 14:
Notice the rust on the wheel hub?  The rotors were pretty stuck to the car.  To prevent this in the future, apply some antiseize...


Step 15:
Install the new rotor, with the original T30 set screw.


Step 16:
Re-install the caliper carrier with the two 21mm bolts.


Step 17:
Clean and grease your caliper carrier pins (using moly foritified or other high quality grease).


Step 18:
Install the inboard pad on the caliper.


Step 19:
Install outboard pad on the caliper carrier.


Step 20:
Slide the caliper back onto the caliper carrier.  Re-secure with the caliper carrier pins.  Be sure to replace the black plastic covers on the caliper carrier pins, and reconnect the wear sensor if your new pads have one.


Step 21:
Re-install the anti-vibration clip.


Step 22:
Put some antiseize on your lugs.  And re-install your wheel.


Step 23:
Pump your brakes until they feel firm.

Step 24:
Repeat steps 2-23 for other front wheel.

Step 25:
Take car off jack stands and tighten all lugs to spec.


Rear brakes to follow shortly!

[elitedübs]

Information provided by DigitalHippie

Some of you may have seen my other post... but since that thread was more about Shox.com's poor service, I decided to clean it up and compile one post/review of my suspension mods as I don't know of anyone else running FSDs on a mk5 yet.  Due to Shox.com screwing up my order... its a two part review.  The Eibach springs were installed on the stock struts for nearly a month before installing the Koni FSD struts.


Here's the car on day 1 of ownership...




Here's the car after JUST the Eibach springs...





I like the drop with just the springs.  They seemed to be a tiny bit smoother over the little bumps in the road... but seemed too stiff at times causing the ride to be a little bouncy on the stock struts.


And finally, the car with the FSDs and Eibach springs...






After installing the FSD struts, the back end went up about .3"... but still dropped compared to stock.  I don't mind the slight front rake, and I like the overall look when I finished.  It may still settle a little this week, but I'm not expecting a big change.

Ride is smoother over the ****ty Stamford roads. Better rebound (the Eibachs alone felt too stiff on the stock struts at times)... so hitting dips in the road or big bumps doesn't make me feel like I'm floating any more. Still feels stiff when you push it through a turn. And much less rear rake when I stomp on the throttle.  I took a 2hr round trip drive to a show yesterday, and both of my passengers remarked on how smooth the ride is for a lowered car.

I ran into one issue installing the struts.  If you are familiar with mk4/mk5 suspensions... the lower part of the front strut is held in by a big pinch collar.  Even after removing the bolt from the collar, it still holds the strut SO tight, that you need a special little spreader tool (I actually made my own spreader tool, but have used it for over 7 installs now without any issues).  The problem is... the metal tab Koni has sticking out of the FSD strut is too large to use the spreader tool while inserting the strut... BUT the strut CANNOT be inserted into the collar without the collar being spread.  I cut the lower corner off Koni's tab so they'd slide into the collar while the spreader tool was in place.  The tab is still much larger than the stock strut's tab.  Pieces cut off "tab":

[elitedübs]

Resetting Service reminder

8,000km is the equivalent to 5,000mi, as is 16,000km to 10,000mi.

Access the Instrument Cluster, Address 17
Go to ADAPTATION (10)
select Channel 42, and set the MILES
a value of 100 = 10,000 (you Canadian folks will have to wing it)
a Value of 50 = 5,000

Save your Adaptation changes.

Re-enter Adaptation, and select channel 49
enter 180 for the days to 5,000 mile service, or 365 for the days to the 10,000 service.
Save these changes.

Reset the mileage counter:
go back into Adaptation, access channel 2
set it to 0
save the change.


With MFI (right from VW, but erroneously called MFD on the Vortex)
1. Key out of ignition
2. Press and hold the reset button for trip odometer, located on the right side of the instrument cluster
3. Turn ignition key to "on", wait for "Service now" message to appear on the multi-function screen. Then release the "reset" button for the trip OD, and press MIN button on the opposite side of the instrument cluster.
4. Verify reset: briefly hold the reset button for the OD, display should indicate the future "service by xxxx miles/xxx days" depending on settings in the service interval adaptation (top of this post).

Cars without MFI

Same as above, except #3 is replaced with a "wrench" symbol.