EliteDubs.Com
May 22, 2012, 07:52:48 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
   Home   Help Search GoogleTagged Login Register  
Pages: [1]   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: IAT Sensor Thermal Spacer  (Read 2864 times)
Don®
1.8T Illuminatus
Global Moderator
Master
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1017



« on: August 15, 2006, 09:31:33 PM »

I was thinking perhaps an IAT Sensor Thermal Spacer would better help intake air temps since the hard plastic mouting is hard/dense enough to absorb/transfer heat to the thermistor.

Any ideas?...
Logged

Don®
1.8T Illuminatus
Global Moderator
Master
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1017



« Reply #1 on: August 15, 2006, 11:32:11 PM »

I just made one from 3/32" thk Garlock great material to use...I'll see if it helps with IAT's
Logged

lugnuts
Virgin
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 4


« Reply #2 on: August 16, 2006, 12:41:50 AM »

I was thinking perhaps an IAT Sensor Thermal Spacer would better help intake air temps since the hard plastic mouting is hard/dense enough to absorb/transfer heat to the thermistor.

Any ideas?...

Obviously the fuel and timing calibration will need to be changed.
If the management you are using can estimate charge temperature (based on load and rpm is nice) then there would be an greater advantage to having a more accurate air temp reading.
With full charge temp estimation capability, you could tune the engine to have a good air/fuel ratio with either sensor you use, but by removing the false heat you could "model" the engines true characteristics.

For what its worth, I have found that the 1.8t air temp sensor is quicker and less likely to heat soak then the earlier vw temp sensors, and it is *much better then the GM sensors that some aftermarket ECU's use.
Logged
Don®
1.8T Illuminatus
Global Moderator
Master
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1017



« Reply #3 on: August 16, 2006, 04:10:58 AM »

Kevin thanks for the input and it defenitely makes sense. Reason I thought of this was from messing around the other day cleaning the Air temp sensor with the motor warm & the plastic was hot to touch. I knew within reason that it would be hot but no so much that it was untouchable.

Now that I have it on I'll check if it makes any difference at all.

BTW - Welcome to elitedubs  Cool
« Last Edit: August 17, 2006, 01:14:31 PM by DonR » Logged

Dizzy
1.8t Marshal
Global Moderator
Padawan
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 751



« Reply #4 on: August 16, 2006, 06:52:11 AM »


BTW - Welcome to elitedubs  Cool

Don, any thoughts on moving it to maybe directly post IC?   Let it be more a true reading of the already IC cooled air instead of absorbing any heat from the intake mani/head?   
Logged

enginerd
Suspension & Transmission Masta
Global Moderator
Padawan
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 580



« Reply #5 on: August 16, 2006, 01:18:15 PM »



The sensor has a small bead on a wire. Even if the plastic gets hot it has to transfer heat down the wire and get to the little bead. I agree with lugnuts, the sensor is a very good design. if anythgin a spacer might just move it out of the flow stream and put the bead closer to the hot wall of the intake.

Figure most tuning is done on a heat soaked dyno, so it already accounts for high intake temps, or at least a heat soaked IMF.

A european tuner threw a potentiometer on his audi tt to try and richen up the mix. made the car think it was ~32 F all the time. his EGT's went down 100C. Not really best practice if you have a good tuner, but if you feel like experimenting......
Logged

Coil Pack Retaining Brackets: Here
My RIDE

SWIFT MOTORSPORTS CT Forum     
1.8T TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE 
bobqzzi
Dyno Master Flex
Global Moderator
Rookie
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 328


« Reply #6 on: August 17, 2006, 12:50:42 AM »

I'm not sure I'd want to fool this sensor- it offers important info to the ecu that affects both A/F and timing- possibly boost levels/TB closure?
Logged
lugnuts
Virgin
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 4


« Reply #7 on: August 17, 2006, 01:18:50 AM »

Chuck thanks for the input and it defenitely makes sense. Reason I thought of this was from messing around the other day cleaning the Air temp sensor with the motor warm & the plastic was hot to touch. I knew within reason that it would be hot but no so much that it was untouchable.

Now that I have it on I'll check if it makes any difference at all.

BTW - Welcome to elitedubs  Cool

Thanks, but who's Chuck?  huh
Logged
Purple-pill
Virgin
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 1


« Reply #8 on: August 17, 2006, 03:38:02 AM »

Chuck thanks for the input and it defenitely makes sense. Reason I thought of this was from messing around the other day cleaning the Air temp sensor with the motor warm & the plastic was hot to touch. I knew within reason that it would be hot but no so much that it was untouchable.

Now that I have it on I'll check if it makes any difference at all.

BTW - Welcome to elitedubs  Cool

Thanks, but who's Chuck?  huh

Slappynuts = Chuck B?  azn 
dont know how i got lured into here now.
« Last Edit: August 17, 2006, 01:55:36 PM by DonR » Logged
Don®
1.8T Illuminatus
Global Moderator
Master
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1017



« Reply #9 on: August 17, 2006, 01:19:26 PM »

My bad Kevin I sort of got confused on was who from the vortex.

I tried the Garlock gasket with no noticable difference it has already been removed.
Logged

v84lnch
Rookie
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 156



« Reply #10 on: August 18, 2006, 04:07:55 AM »

rofl. don, you're no good at names bro.  icon_face

i agree with diz. place the iat closer to the outlet of the i/c. ideas running through my head now...
Logged

i like dizzy deleting my posts.
SAVwKO
n00b and a half
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 12



« Reply #11 on: October 02, 2006, 02:52:16 PM »

Kevin thanks for the input and it defenitely makes sense. Reason I thought of this was from messing around the other day cleaning the Air temp sensor with the motor warm & the plastic was hot to touch. I knew within reason that it would be hot but no so much that it was untouchable.

I may be stating something obvious, but I've found that the heatsoak you see is after you turn off the car and the heat from the motor comes up into the intake mani.  Provided you have a FMIC, the mani should never get blistering hot.  I've done lots of highway pulls back to back to back and popped the hood and could put my body weight on my hands on the mani.  Once you shut it down, the heat comes.

So, I don't think the IAT ever gets as hot as you felt it when you're driving.  As long as you have a flow of air coming from the IC, it's reading correctly.
Logged

Concrete hurt my car...
Boostin20v
Virgin
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 2


« Reply #12 on: October 03, 2006, 02:47:30 AM »

maybe with the tiny K03, but not from my experience with a larger turbo (t3/t04e)
Logged

ruler of ?id=27 Wink
Pages: [1]   Go Up
  Print  

 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.16 | SMF © 2011, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!